Lockheed TF-104G Starfighter, Hasegawa 1/48

The Starfighter has always been one of my favorite aircraft! Greece received forty-five new-built F-104G and six TF-104Gs (between 1964 – 1972) under the Military Assistance Program, supplemented by second-hand Starfighters passed on from other NATO air forces, including seventy-nine from Germany, seven from the Netherlands and nine from Spain. The Starfighter entered Greek service in April 1964, equipping two wings, leaving service in March 1993.

The Hasegawa 1/48th scale kit (catalog No.07240/PT40) is as good as you would expect from this manufacturer, and went together without any problems. It was almost OOB except: an Eduard zoom cockpit interior set, Aires resin exhaust nozzle and wing external fuel tanks. I was soon ready to paint it!

After the basic build finished, I prepared the model for the painting procedure. I washed it with soap water to remove any grease from my hands and dust residues.

The first stage started by spraying Mig Ammo’s primer in light coats.I mixed the grey and white primer for a lighter grey primer shade. Using primers we can detect any flaws on our models and prepare the surface for the paint.

The painting procedure for the three tone color camouflage (Norm83, “Lizzard” pattern) started by painting the lighter color (mixing the basic Tamiya XF-58 olive green and XF-19 sky grey in a 70/30 ratio).The next color is Gunze H309 green. Last is the darkest -almost black- color. For that I used Tamiya’s XF-85 and XF-19 in a 80/20 ratio.The radome was painted by mixing Gunze H316 white and Tamiya XF-62 olive drab. For defining the edges of the camouflage pattern I used the Blue Tak technique.

By adding some drops of light grey (XF-19) I made the highlights to the cammo colors. I preferred the grey instead of white because the contrast between the colors is softer.

After the paint job finished I gave the whole model multiple  coats of clear gloss varnish from Ammo range to seal the cammo colors and prepare the surface to accept the decals.

After glossing and decaling the model (I used an ICARUS Decals sheet), the highlights effect was reduced, so with Tamiya’s X-19 smoke I created some post shade effects to worn the cammo closer to reality.

Then I paid attention to the wing and wing tanks. At first I sprayed them with Mr Metal Color 218 aluminum, which is buffable and with my finger I buffed them.

After that I applied with a brush a layer of Ammo Chipping Fluid (scratches effects ammo) that later with a brush and some water gave them the chipping effect.

Finally I post shade them by using a sandy color. In this case Tamiya XF-60 dark yellow.

Next step was to paint the landing gear and exhaust nozzle. Both were sprayed with Black base primer of Mig Ammo-Alclad range. Let it dry for 24 hours.

Then I used Alclad’s aluminium and sprayed the gear.

Mig-Ammo PLW Black Night gave some depth to the gear.

The nozzle was painted externally with Alclad’s stainless steel and with the Mr metal color 214 dark iron internally.

When dried, it was sprayed with Alclad’s Aqua gloss varnish. Let it dry for 24 hours....

Then it received a PLW black night wash to give the correct effect.

Last step for the nozzle was to spray it with a satin varnish from Mig - Ammo range.

The basic weathering stage to the model started next and for that I used PLW Deep Brown wash from Ammo range for the two greens of the cammo pattern.

I let the wash dry...

...and then with a piece of soft paper towel I cleaned the wash from the model’s surfaces.

For the black areas I used PLW Stone Grey for Black from Ammo, let it dry and cleaned it, like the previous step.

Wheelwells both received a PLW Black Night wash to show the details.

Finally I sprayed the model with a matt varnish from Ammo in a 50/50 mix with Ammo’s acrylic thinners. Give it at least 24 hours to dry before touch it.

For the navigation lights I first applied Microscale’s Crystal Klear to the specific holes I opened in the beginning of the build...

...let it dry as a transparent film and then with Ammo crystal green and red I painted the lights.

With a little scratch built I made the internal structural of the canopies using evergreen’s plastic rods and white tape (or white decal strips) because Hasegawa has no detail at all there. This is maybe the only negative of the kit, besides lack of any weapon!

Click at the photogallery below to enlarge each image and see all the build, step-by-step...